Explore the Ligurian Riviera coast, the Ligurian Alps, and cities of Italy with a variety of independent, self-guided itineraries.

Whether you wish for a holiday of walking or relaxed sightseeing visiting some of Italy's most beautiful seaside towns & cities, come and discover - at any time of the year.
Walking & Sightseeing Trip Overview

Choose from 5 Itineraries

Choose from 5 itineraries from 3 to 9 hours. Minimum time required is 3 hrs.

1. Boat & Visit: Graded GREEN, Boat & Visit Tour, 3 to 8 hrs.
Camogli to San Fruttuoso by boat - San Fruttuoso to Portofino by boat - Portofino to Santa Margherita Ligure by boat or by bus.
2. Boat & Walk: Graded BLUE, Boat & Walking Tour, 3.5 to 8 hrs.
Camogli to San Fruttuoso by boat - San Fruttuoso to Portofino via Base '0' & Vessinaro by foot - Portofino to Santa Margherita Ligure by boat or by bus.
3. Boat & Walk: Graded BLUE, Boat & Walking Tour, 3.5 to 8 hrs.
Arenzano to San Fruttuoso by boat - San Fruttuoso to Portofino via Base '0' & Vessinaro by foot - Portofino back to Arenzano by boat boat or train.
4. Medium Walk: Graded RED, Walking Tour**, 4.5 to 9 hrs.
Camogli to San Fruttuoso via San Rocco, Mortola & Semaforo Nuovo - San Fruttuoso to Portofino via Base '0' & Vessinaro - Portofino to Santa Margherita Ligure by boat or by bus.
5. Hard Walk*: Graded BLACK, Walking Tour**, 5.5 to 9 hrs.
Camogli to San Fruttuoso via San Rocco, Mortola, Punta Buco & Cala dell'Oro - San Fruttuoso to Portofino via Base '0' & Vessinaro - Portofino to Santa Margherita Ligure by boat or by bus.

* Not for those who suffer vertigo or are uncomfortable with 'via ferrata' (sections with chains and wires to hold onto while traversing steep, high rocky terrain). This is a quite spectacular coastal path but you must be fit, in good shape and used to 4-6 hour walks over fairly strenuous terrain with many hill climbs. This walk is in general, not so bad but there are steep and strenuous sections which in total last around 1hr. Plus, the 2 sections of via ferrata are only for those with rock steady feet and are used to wide open vantage points high above the cliffs. Not really dangerous, but if you are not confident before taking this itinerary, you'll find it at least hard going and at worst, even scary.

** Both beautiful walks with stunning coastal panoramas. The Hard Walk is probably the most 'raw' and wild with the path hugging the coastal cliffs just above the sea, but you need a good head for heights. The Medium Walk is possibly perhaps a little harder physically with a much steeper climb and descent, but is much more comfortable under foot and giving a greater sense of security.

Tips specific to this itinerary

· If you can, it is better to do this walk during the week rather than at weekends when it is really full of visitors, both local and from abroad.
· If you've eaten and feel full but still fancy an ice cream, try the combination of limone and yogurt.
· For a tasty snack, try farinata, the lightly fried 'pan-cakes' made from chickpea flower and so very typical of the region.

Detailed Itinerary

Where to start
The itinerary starts at Camogli railway station, except for Itinerary 3, which starts in San Fruttuoso after a boat trip there for those staying in Arenzano.

Arenzano to San Fruttuoso - by boat
Itineraries 3 & 'Riviera Coast & Mountains'.
Journey time: 2h00 See Appendix A for details.

Depart from the port in Arenzano at 0830 for the boat trip to Portofino. Generally, you will have to change boats in the port of Genova but check with staff on the boat. A change of boat means simply getting off one and onto another moored alongside. Once in San Fruttuoso, the next stop after Genova, disembark and either walk to Portofino or catch a later boat there. Boats to Portofino leave San Fruttuoso every hour. On days when the sea is a little rough, the boat may miss the San Fruttuoso stop and continue straight to Portofino since the quay in San Fruttuoso is small and requires calm seas.

Boats back to Arenzano generally leave Portofino late afternoon at 1700 from the main quay (the same one you arrive at if taking the boat from San Fruttuoso). Look for a boat marked 'Rodi Jet'. Ask and confirm time of departure from Portofino when on the boat from Arenzano. On the way back, the boat stops in Genova where once again, you must disembark and catch another boat for Arenzano which leaves Genova around 1830. If you miss the last boat back or wish to stay later, catch a bus from Portofino to Santa Margherita, and then the train back to Arenzano.

For those walking to Portofino, continue from the section titled 'San Fruttuoso to Portofino - via Base 0', detailed later in this itinerary.

Camogli - a little stroll around
Itineraries 1, 2, 4, and 5.

Once you arrive at the station in Camogli, go through a little door and in through the waiting room before walking down the stairs to the street below. Alternatively, walk along the platform past the little door until you reach an open stairway on your left which go down to the street below.

At the bottom of the steps, turn right, cross over the road and walk along the street until you see some long steep steps on the left going down to a street below. Walk down the steps and turn right at the bottom. Walk towards a narrow pedestrian street and walk through to reach the centre of Camogli.

As you walk along the promenade, you'll see a foccaceria on the right called Cose Buone, which sells paninis, pizza slices and other savoury snacks. It is a good idea to get something to nibble on later, although don't bother buying much since you can buy lunch in San Fruttuoso. As you walk along you'll see the beach to your left and a jetty and church up ahead to your left. This is the beach side of Camogli, which is connected to the fishing port via an archway at the end of the promenade, in the centre. It is worth spending some time to wander around both sides of this very characteristic fishing village.

Camogli to San Fruttuoso - by boat.
Itineraries 1, 2 & 'Italian Rivera Towns'.
Journey time: 0hr30

Go through to the fishing port side of Camogli and continue walking along the quayside to your right (the land side) until you reach a jetty on your left with a covered waiting area and timetables. The boats leave from here to San Fruttuoso every hour, on the hour and tickets can be purchased as you board or from the ticket office a little further along the quay. A single ticket costs around 5.50 Euro. On arrival in San Fruttuoso, check the timetable for your preferred departure for Portofino.

Camogli to San Rocco
Itineraries 4 and 5. Walking time: 0hr30

When you are ready to start the walk to San Rocco, retrace your steps back along the promenade and back through the narrow street to the bottom of the steep stairway that you walked down earlier. Instead of talking the steps back up, continue along to a car park where at the beginning on your right is a hotel. Continue along through to the end of the car park where the road bends sharply to the left. There is a police station carabinieri to the right and next to this is a 'no through road'. Instead of going round the hairpin bend to your left, continue up along the 'no through road' with a stream on your left. Continue straight ahead, ignoring the path down to the left at the next fork.

At the next hairpin bend to the right, continue straight on with the stream still to your left. When you reach a little gap through a wall, turn right onto the steps and continue up. There are 2 red dots painted on the wall. At the next fork continue straight on ignoring the path to left. The path now gets steep but is stepped and still comfortable. Note also the red circle painted on the wall, which signifies another walk that starts off along this same path.

Continue up through the olive groves and fruit trees, the path is still steep but ok. At the next corner with the 2 red dots painted on the wall, continue up the steps to the right and not straight on along a grassy path. As you walk up the steps, look out for signs to San Rocco painted with an arrow, to confirm you are walking in the right direction. At the next corner, once again ignore the grassy path straight ahead, and continue up the steps to your right. When you reach a pink house at the top, turn left and you are now in the heart of San Rocco. There is a foccaceria on the left and some steps up ahead which take you to the Piazza in front of the church. This is a nice place to stop for a break and light refreshments. The church itself is well worth popping into.

San Rocco to the route option point
Itineraries 4 and 5. Walking time: 0hr15

Next to the church on the right hand side as you look at it from the Piazza, you'll see some steps that go up behind the church. Next to these steps on the right is the trail you must continue along. It is a level, paved path with a small wall along the right hand side with magnificent views over the coast back to Camogli and the Gulf of Genova. Once again, the path is identified by 2 red dots painted on the wall. Additionally, look for the sign 'via Mortola'. If you look just past the sign, there is a little shrine and a tap with drinking water, plus signs to Mortola, Punta Chiappa and Semaforo Nuovo. Continue along the path with iron railings to your right and confirm that you are going the right way by noting a Cafe built into the rocks on the left, with a little terrace. At the next fork, ignore the sign and steps down to San Nicolo, and continue straight on along the level path in the direction of Mortola.

Continue straight on to a little hamlet and a green door with the number 18 written on it. Walking to the left, and into a little Piazza with a mosaic of pebbles in the centre, go straight across to the far-left corner and continue between two stairways. The path then takes you through an arch and continues down and round to the right to a bridge over a little stream. Continuing round to the right, the concrete path gives way to a fairly level but stony path which is still good to walk on. A little further on, the path goes up some concrete steps and returns to a good condition., and then back again to an earthy path into woodland.

At the next junction, there are some steps to the left sign-posted to Semaforo Nuovo, a sign pointing back to San Rocco, and a sign pointing along the path to 'Batterie'. If you are happy to continue along the section with 'via ferrata', take the 'black' trail via Punta Buco described next, option 1, otherwise take the 'red' trail via Semaforo Nuovo, option 2.

Option 1. San Fruttuoso via Punta Buco - 'black' trail
Itinerary 5. Walking time: 1hr00

Take the path ahead sign-posted to 'Batterie' with a white arrow on a red background.

The path now follows a pine needle covered trail. Further along, the trail goes under a small rock face and continues on round to the right where the path becomes quite narrow but ok. The path is quite rocky and uneven until you come out of the woods on a rocky headland. Magnificent viewpoint back to San Rocco and Camogli, with Punta Chiappa down below. There is an incredible view from here over the sea back along the coast to Genova.

Continue round the viewpoint and down a little rocky trail. You can take comfort by noting the 2 red dots painted along the trail and by the fact that the sea remains to your right. Further along you will see 2 more viewpoints jutting out and which look like old gun positions from the war. Continue along past them until you reach a rock face that crosses the path, sloping at around 40 degrees. The crossing is ok and assisted by a chain that you can hold onto with both hands for security. It is a bit scary for those with vertigo, but like most things, fine once you've made it to the other side.

A fairly stony path continues after crossing the rock face but again, is it comfortable. Much of the way along this trail is alright with a lush covering of vegetation, and in general, traverses steeply sloping coastal cliffs rather than sheer drops. Not so far after the previous traverse with chains, you will reach another section of via ferrata, which is most definitely not suitable for those with vertigo. There are chains all along to hold onto so it is ok but quite long.

The trail now continually goes in and out, round headland and ravine, with few places to take a wrong direction. There are no obvious junctions or other trails going off it and with the red dots painted fairly often, there aren't many possibilities to lose the trail. The red dots should always reaffirm your correct course. There is one little path going straight on at one of the hairpins going up through the woods, but it only goes a few metres and should be ignored. Keep jig zagging up to finally reach the top of a ridge with a large rock outcrop to the left. Continue over the crest and start the descent down through the woods on the other side.

Now, you can just continue down, down and down the rocky trail to San Fruttuoso. The path is uneven but comfortable with 2 red dots marked along the way. The final descent down to San Fruttuoso is nothing short of quite spectacular as you walk down through the olive trees with views over the tiny cove and the sound of boats coming and going. At the end of April, the air is fresh in the shade but it is really hot in the sun. Down the final set of steps you'll reach a fork where the steps to the right take you to the boats, and the steps to the left take you to the beach and abbey of San Fruttuoso. At this point, you have the choice of taking a boat back to Camogli or onto Portofino should you no longer wish to walk. For those wishing to walk to Portofino, continue from the section "San Fruttuoso to Portofino via Base 0'". If you wish to take a boat onto Portofino instead of walking, boats leave fairly regularly but check departure times on the quayside. Take the steps on the left down to beach and abbey, where you will find little characteristic bars and restaurants. Take time to wander around and perhaps take lunch and a well-earned rest.

Option 2. San Fruttuoso via Semaforo Nuovo - 'red' trail
Itinerary 4. Walking time: 1hr15

Take the path that forks to the left and sign-posted to 'Semaforo Nuovo'. Straight on is sign-posted to Batterie and is the trail with the via ferrata.

The path to Semaforo Nuovo begins on a stony path with a gentle set of steps that zigzag up into the wooded hills above. This trail is marked fairly regularly with 2 red triangles painted on rocks and trees. It is a fairly steep path but is comfortable under foot. A very pretty walk through the woods that isn't so open for the views back along the coast to Camogli, but is the only way to avoid a 'head-spin' on the via ferrata.

About half way up, the path opens up and you are rewarded for all your efforts with a spectacular viewpoint allowing you to look back along the coast to Genova. The path continues fairly open for a while before going under the cover of the trees again. During the summer months of June, July and August though, the trees offer welcome shade from the intensity of the sun.

As you get to the top of the climb and reach a ridge, you will reach a crossroads. Your trail continues along the path straight ahead, ignoring the path to the left. If you have the energy and inclination, it is well worth the detour along the path to the right, to the headland and viewpoint of Semaforo Nuovo. It takes about 5 mins to walk there and 10 mins to walk back to the crossroads. The highest point on the headland, where you will find an antennae and amazing views over the coastal mountains and sea below, is reached by taking the small path straight on where the main path bears round to the right. After returning from the viewpoint at the antennae, take the other main path that drops down slightly to the end of the headland. There are a few buildings of the Forestry Commission plus a helicopter-landing pad. The views from here are once again quite magnificent. Return to the crossroads at the top of the ridge reached earlier.

At the crossroads, take the path sign-posted to Pietre Strette, straight on from the original path you reached the ridge on. The path to Pietre Strette opens up immediately from the crossroads with fantastic views along the coast hills and sea below. The path along the coast here is now identified by 3 red dots painted in the trees in the shape of a triangle. They don't appear so often but the path is very obvious and with no opportunities to take a wrong turning.

The path continues pretty much on the same level following the contour lines of the coastal hills. It is more like being in a helicopter or light aircraft rather than on foot - such are the aerial 'shots' offered from this most elevated of positions. Almost looking down on everything, San Fruttuoso appears to be no more than a 'model village' nestled in on the coast below. Along this stretch, you become much aware of the grandeur and scale of this coastal landscape.

As the path drops down a little and inland, the path arrives at a junction. There is a path going down to the right and up to the left. Take the path to the right that begins the long descent down through the woods to San Fruttuoso. The sign-post to San Fruttuoso is however located at a second junction a little way up the other path to the left. Follow the path and signs all the way down through the woods to San Fruttuoso, arriving in the little abbey courtyard where you'll see a chapel, a telephone box, and a number of tourist stalls selling trinkets.

From the courtyard, make your way down the steps in the far left corner to the beach and cove. Take time to have a snack, meal or drink in one of the beach cafes or restaurants. If you wish to take a boat along the coast to Portofino instead of walking the next stage, make your way to the jetty where boats leave for Portofino quite frequently. If you prefer to walk to Portofino, return to the courtyard passed through earlier, and continue from the next section, "San Fruttuoso to Portofino - via Base '0'".

San Fruttuoso to Portofino - by boat should you decide not to walk.
Itineraries 1, 'Italian Riviera Towns', 'Riviera Coast & Mountains'.
Journey time: 0hr30

Go to the little quayside in San Fruttuoso, where you arrived. The boats leave from here to Portofino about every hour, and tickets can be purchased as you board. A single ticket costs around 5 Euro.

San Fruttuoso to Portofino - via Base '0'
Itineraries 2, 3, 4 and 5. Walking time: 2hr15

Whether you have arrived on foot from Camogli or by boat, you should make your way down to the main beach in front of the abbey. Continuing the walk onto Portofino, you must cross the beach and go through one of the arches with signs to the abbey tower. At the back of the archway, steps to the right will take you up into a courtyard with a little chapel on your right. You'll see the usual collection of tourist gifts in the kiosks, but take some time to look around. Walk across the Piazza to the far-left corner and go up the steps with signposts for the Doria Tower, a post box and telephone box on the left. Then over a bridge and follow steps up to the Doria Tower. The steps continue up with the domed abbey tower passed to your right at head height. Ignore the path going off to the right seemingly into the abbey rooftops. At this junction take the path to the left where the red dots ambiguously point up between the 2 paths and follow, for this section only, the red circle up to the tower.

At the courtyard in front of the tower, continue up the steps to your left. Soon after, take the right fork where you must follow the red dots at a wooden post and blue sign with a yellow arrow pointing to the right, with directions to Base '0'. The path descends slightly and continues along the coastal path. At the next fork, ignore the sign pointing down to the fisherman's beach, Spiaggia dei Pescatore, and continue straight on in the direction of Base '0' and Portofino Mare. The trail now ascends through a little picnic area and over a racked railway which is used for taking produce up and down the hillside. Continue up the steep steps up the side of the hill that seems to have been the victim of a landslide. Lots of repair work and new steps have now made the path well defined and comfortable. Finally, as you reach the top, you'll enter a little clearing on the crest of hill. A path goes up to the left sign-posted to Portofino Vetta or straight on.

Continue straight on, taking the right fork at this clearing marked with 2 red dots. The path now continues along an smooth, earthy trail. There are great views along here and on a clear day, you can see right along the Levante Riviera and the Cinque Terre coast to Portovenere, which is just before the Gulf of the Poets and La Spezia.

The trailway now follows the contours of the coastal hills, with macchia and rich, varied vegetation all around you. In and out, passing headlands then ravines. After the climb out of San Fruttuoso, the path is pretty level and with only a few steps here and there. Continue along until path reaches a little ridge from where you can see 2 villas - a yellow one to the left and a white one straight ahead. The path descends gently with wooden railings to your right. Continue 'under' the gardens of the villa on your left towards a white/beige villa and notice cacti on the left and terraces with vines to your right. At the next junction which meets with the high path from Camogli, turn right. You will see signs at this junction to Olmi (15mins), San Fruttuoso back along trail you have just walked, and Portofino Mare (30min) in the direction you need to continue in.

Walk towards a white/beige villa ahead, along the path with 2 red dots painted on a tree and olive tress on the left. The and path descends to left of the villa. Continue down round to the left along the paved path amongst olive groves, and with wild garlic and flowers all around if walking here during spring. Down and round to the right and over a stream which in summer is usually just mud or even dried out - there is not much water there even in May. Just along to your right you will see a small reservoir. Continue to the next corner along this paved pathway, where a dirt path goes off to the right. Ignore the dirt path and continue round to the left along the paved path that is big enough for a Fiat Panda or 'ape' - the little 3-wheeled pickups that are so common in rural Italy.

Go past a picnic area on the right to the next junction where you turn right in the direction of Portofino Mare, ignoring the path going straight ahead and continue down this 'ape' trail. You will see 2 red dots on a tree then a further 3 red dots on next one, and the paved road continues down through the olive groves. You will soon reach an old farm building on the left with the first section nicely restored. At the next junction, ignore path to your right and continue straight on round to the left past what you'll see to be a little chapel.

The path bears round to left past a restored, sandy coloured house with green shutters, then round to the right from where you'll now have fantastic views across the Gulf of Tigullio. Continue down with magnificent views over the picturesque little cove of Paraggi, which is full of boats on a sunny day between spring and autumn - a most beautiful place. You can also see the coast road going back to Santa Margherita, passing a headland with 3 most amazing villas on it.

If you look along the coast beyond Santa Margherita, the resort towns of Rapallo and Chiavari can be seen to the east. The path continues down past an ochre coloured building on the left, to where the path bears round to the left with a green sign to Portofino Mara. The path now continues down steps and the paved road turns into a path again at the bottom of the steps. This stony, narrow and uneven path goes down a steeply stepped alley with garden walls on either side. The steps continue down to a point where you get a great view over Portofino.

Soon after, the path widens and changes to a well maintained, paved path that is wide enough for a small car. At the bottom of the steps, turn right follow red dots with Portofino on your left. At the next fork with a lamp-post, take the left fork down some steps to the road and cross straight over diagonally to the left and take some more steps down an alley between the houses to the quayside of Portofino. Turn right when you arrive at the water's edges and walk to the centre of Portofino and the main Piazza.

Portofino

Walk around, then perhaps take a walk up to the church overlooking Portofino. When you are ready to leave, go to Santa Margherita for the train back. For those returning to Arenzano by boat, go to the boat jetty, unless you choose to stay in Portofino later and catch a train back.

Portofino to Santa Margherita - by bus
Journey time: 0hr15
With the sea behind you, go across the Piazza to the far left corner and the main pedestrian going inland. At the end where the street meets the road, you'll see a small parking area and a taxi rank. You can buy bus tickets from the newspaper kiosk at the end of the pedestrian street on the left, or from the ticket machine at the bus stop. Tickets cost 1 Euro each for a single to Santa Margherita - "uno/due biglietti per l'autobus a Santa Margherita". Catch the bus on the other side of the road from the taxi rank where you see the bus sign 'Tigullio Capolinea'.

Portofino to Santa Margherita - by boat
Journey time: 0hr30
Go along the quayside to the right as you look out to sea from the Piazza. At the start of the main jetty you'll see a timetable and notice board for boats to Santa Margherita, Rapallo and San Fruttuoso. Boats generally leave every hour and you can buy your tickets as you board the boat, or from the ticket office on the quayside. A single to Santa Margherita costs 3.5 Euro.

Portofino to Arenzano - by boat
Itinerary 3. Journey time: 2h00
At the time specified earlier for the departure back to Arenzano, go along the quayside to the right as you look out to sea from the Piazza. You should ask someone and check for the correct boat prior to embarking.

Santa Margherita - finding the railway station

After getting off the boat or bus in Santa Margheirta, follow the promenade with the sea on your right, and shops on the other side of the road on your left. Continue in a northerly direction, towards the end of the promenade where there is a green painted building on the left and the Hotel Metropole ahead on the sea front. Just before the café/bar la terrasse, look out for signs for the stazione (railway station), and a pedestrian crossing. Cross the road here and look to the right to see a sign to centro d'arte and a sign to the station in 4 languages. Follow these signs along the road via alla stazione to the steps on your right just before the entrance to a tunnel. Take the long steep steps up to the road above, which you must cross and continue on to the right. A little way ahead you will see the station, stazione Santa Margherita Ligure-Portofino.

Appendix A - Arenzano to San Fruttuoso by boat.

Boat trip along the coast to San Fruttuoso for those staying in Arenzano. Boat departs from the first jetty on the left as you walk into the marina/port - tickets can be bought as you board.

Depart from the port in Arenzano at 0830 for the boat trip to San Fruttuoso.

Boat Times
Takes Depart Arrive
2h00 Arenzano 08:30 San Fruttuoso 10:30

* July: every Sun. July: Wed 13, 20 & 27. Sat 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30. Sun 3, 10, 17, 24 & 31. August: Mon 15. Tue 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30. Wed 3, 10, 17, 24 & 31. Fri 5, 12, 19 & 26. Sat 6, 13, 20 & 27.Sun 7, 14, 21 & 28. September: Sun 4, 11 & 18.

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