Short breaks: CATANIA CITY BREAKS - Xtrallusion Holidays.

Catania is Sicily's most interesting and intriguing city, dating back to Greek colonization in the 8th century BC, it lies at the base of the great volcano Mount Etna and is lapped by the crystal waters of the Ionian Sea.

An elegant and lively baroque city, it was re-built after the 1669 eruption and subsequent earthquake of 1693, almost entirely out of lava rock. It has the 2nd largest Roman Amphitheatre to the Colosseum (although only partly visible as covered by lava) and a 2nd Century AD Roman Theatre and Odeon. It has always been an important trading port and so inherited the elephant, carrying an Egyptian obelisk, as its emblem.

It is famed for its colourful fish market ('La Pescheria') situated at the bottom of our street and the cheapest and best food on the island. There is also a Sunday morning flea market for antique hunters. The city has a thriving live music and arts scene, a majestic theatre (www.teatromassimobellini.it), open-air cinemas and an unrivalled choice of bars, clubs and good restaurants. ('Etna Fest', a festival of music, dance and theatre runs throughout the summer and features reputable national and international acts, many performing under the stars).

As temperatures in summer rarely drop below 30 degrees, Catania is fortunate to benefit from a long stretch of golden sandy beach ('La Plaia' - with all facilities) and a black volcanic sandy cove with little fishing port ('Porto San Giovanni'), both easily accessible from the centre by foot. In winter the weather is equally idyllic, 10 degrees minimum with lots of sunshine and clear blue skies. However, it is also possible to ski down the slopes of the volcano towards the fantastic panorama of the coastline ahead.

The Christmas and New Year festivities are marked by spectacular firework displays, which continue through January and the Festival of St. Agata (from 3rd-5th February), 3 days of cult, devotion, folklore and tradition. This is Sicily's largest religious procession, which passes right below our balconies on the night of the 4th. Only to the 'Holy Week' in Seville and the 'Corpus Domini' ceremony in Peru are comparable, as far as popularity, to the festivities that for 5 centuries have been held in St. Agata's honour.

The patron saint of Catania, she was imprisoned after refusing the advances of an invading Roman tyrant, tortured by amputating her breasts and later burnt to death .In commemoration of this sufferance you can buy in the 'pasticceria's' small ricotta and icing sugar cup-cakes with a cherry on top, called St. Agata's titties ('i minni i St. Agata', in dialect). Her remains are transported in an ornate silver reliquary bust, decorated with priceless jewels and she wears the crown of Richard the 'Lionheart'. NB: She also comes out on the 17th August to commemorate the transfer of her remains from Constantinople to Catania.

Catania & surroundings

ACI CASTELLO & 'THE CYCLOPS ROCKS' OF ACI TREZZA:
It is only a 10-15 min. journey north up the lava rock coastline to these adjoining, pretty fishing villages. Aci Castello is noted for its 13th century castle perched on an outcrop of volcanic rock, excellent swimming/snorkelling and solariums/lidos for sunbathing during the day and socialising at night. Aci Trezza is named after the 3 jagged points of lava rock rising dramatically out of the sea, the highest of which is 60 metres. According to Greek mythology, they were broken off the top of Etna by the blinded Polyphemus and thrown at Ulysses as he and his men escaped from the Cyclops in their ships. It has a romantic promenade for your sunset 'passeggiata' and fine seafood restaurants to complete your evening.

ETNA:
Only 45 minutes away to the Sapienza Refuge but never out of sight, Etna is Europe's highest volcano (3323 mt.) and one of the largest in the world. It is gradually becoming more explosive and is constantly erupting. (Occasionally, it is possible to see at night the glowing stream of molten lava flowing down the southern slopes, from our first balcony.) From the refuge you can take the cable car and 4WD trucks up through the past lava flows, to the crater of the 2001/2 eruption which destroyed the cable-car and the 'Philosopher's Tower'. Alternatively, you can go by foot (a tough 4 hour climb) or if you want to see more, hire a qualified guide/vulcanologist for more extensive exploration of the summit. Note: This can only be done with a guide due to the obvious dangers of spitting molten rocks and gas explosions. It is spectacular in summer, offering great trekking up through the luxurious green chestnut and pinewoods, as it also is in winter when it is possible to ski and explore around 17th century craters. In the foothills you can find interesting medieval villages, rich in local produce such as honey, pistachios and of course 'vino'. So, there's plenty to sample on your journey. These villages are also accessible from the Circumetnea Railway, which departs from Catania and runs through citrus plantations, vines and nut trees offering endless views of the peak.

TAORMINO:
45 minutes north on the motorway A18, Taormina is Sicily's most picturesque medieval town, perched high on a rocky hillside and offering stunning views of Southern Calabria, the Sicilian coastline and smoking volcano. A favourite playground of the European Jet-set, it houses the Taormina International Film Festival in June (www.taorminafilmfest.it), the Womad Music Festival in July (www.worldmusiccentral.org) and Arts Festival throughout July and August (www.taormina-arte.com). These include open-air performances in the most dramatically located Greek theatre in the whole of Italy. Taormina is very expensive and busy in summer however, it still retains just enough of the hilltop village character, which seduced the likes of D.H. Lawrence and Goethe. For a refreshing swim and sunbathe, you can take a short cable-car ride down the hillside to the WWF protected marine park of Isola Bella (the beautiful island), one of the most spectacular coastlines in Sicily. The water here is crystal clear and rich in sea life, so perfect for snorkelling and scuba diving (www.divenike.com). In addition to the spectacular gorges of the nearby Alcantara Valley, the hills surrounding Taormina have preserved timeless, sleepy villages from the ever-changing world. It was the particular charm of these villages that inspired Francis Ford Coppola to feature Savoca (with its eerie catacombs) and Forza D'Agro (with a fantastic taverna 'Sapori Di Vini' and views - tel: 0942 721198) as locations for The Godfather films.

ENNA:
Follow the A19 motorway, for 45 minutes, deep into the mountainous and relatively un-touched interior of the island and you will find the medieval town of Enna, with its impressive Castle ('Castello di Lombardia'). Also known as the Belvedere (panoramic viewpoint), situated high on a ridge and towering over the surrounding scorched countryside, it stages one of the most impressive and awe inspiring Easter processions in Sicily. The Holy Week is for Sicilians a moment of dejection, when the sorrow of the believers finds its full expression as they accompany the Christ and the Madonna, to the sound of the doleful funeral march. Hooded devotees carry their ornate carriages through the candle-lit streets, two steps forward and one step back, proceeding in absolute silence. It is a very emotional and spiritual experience as the Sicilian, believer or non-believer, nourishes a sincere feeling of deep respect for the dying Christ and the crying mother, who lost her son. During June and July the castle also hosts a series of nightly plays.

SIRACUSA:
If you follow the coastline for 45 minutes south from Catania you will arrive in Sicily's most beautiful city, Siracusa. Once the most important city of the Greek world and the Byzantine Empire and former capital of Sicily under the Romans, it combines its ancient glory with the architectural splendour of the 18th century Sicilian Baroque style. The medieval heart of the old city lies on the island of Ortygia, a concentration of alleys and narrow streets leading off the central 'Piazza Del Duomo'. This piazza is one of the most beautiful and elegant Baroque squares in all of Europe, featuring a Cathedral transformed out of a 2,700-year-old Greek temple, following the earthquake of 1693. Back on the mainland, the Archaeological Park in the Neapolis district contains Siracusa's most spectacular monument, the Greek Theatre ('Teatro Greco'). Dating back to the 5th century BC, it was sculpted from living rock and still used every May and June for Greek classical dramas. Later, the Romans used it for gladiator combat, as was the Roman Amphitheatre nearby, the 3rd largest in Italy. Adjacent to Teatro Greco is the Orecchio Di Dionisio, a 60mt long and 20mt high echo cave, thought to have been used as a 'sounding board' for theatrical rehearsals. There are also fine examples of Baroque architecture in the surrounding towns of Noto, Ragusa and Modica.

Pantalica, situated up in the 'Monte Iblei' (heading off the road half way back to Catania) is a spectacular deep, winding ravine and Sicily's greatest 'Necropolis' (ancient burial ground). It was first used between 13th-10th century BC and is a collection of over 5,000 pre-historic tombs hollowed out of the sheer walls. Later, these tombs were used as cave dwellings and by the Christians fleeing Roman persecution and the gladiatorial arena. It is a pleasant hike down to the Anapo River at the bottom of the gorge, passing caves of bats and stalagmites/stalagtites but take lots of water, as it can get very hot! Once you reach the river, you will find a paradise of rare flora and fauna, colourful butterflies and dragonflies and a series of natural bathing pools where you can refresh yourself before your ascent. It is a real 'Garden of Eden' and one of our favourite spots, although only really accessible with your own transport.